Telling time has always been a human proclivity, but pocket watches really took off during the advent of railway systems. To prevent casualty-inducing errors, the engineers and operators relied on accurate timings—everything had to be precise and timed to the second (at times), each officer’s pocket watches synchronized to the same time was the easiest and surest way to accomplish the feat. (In related news, railway companies were a strong influence in the institution and regulation of time zones.) Of course, the general populace caught on to the effectiveness of pocket watches and they became a cultural phenomenon.
There are several well-known high-end brands, but the brands listed here are on the more economically priced rung…
Hamilton, Hampden, Hunter, Illinois, Waltham, and Westclox are all reputable US brands—frequently based in Massachusetts or Illinois, these companies produced pocket watches throughout the first half of the 20th century (some before and/or after). One of the most well-known US brands is Elgin, from Illinois; this brand sold pocket watches for just over a century, starting in 1864. We have dedicated an entire section to exploring a selection of vintage Elgin pieces.
The other well-known producer of watch movements is, of course, Switzerland. Cyma, Lucerne, and Zenith are all certified Swiss-made brands that you will run across frequently.
Table of Contents
How Can I Tell if My Pocket Watch is Antique?
Here are a few tips, ranging from obvious to more obscure, on some ideas for dating a pocket watch:
Batteries. This is the most obvious tip-off, if the pocket watch runs on batteries, it is reliably late-20th century or younger.
Wear. Some pocket watches were barely used, but most show a pattern of wear consistent with being held in certain spots around the edges. (Although do note that refinished watches won’t.)
Materials. Any plastics in the design can reliably date the pocket watch to 1940s or later, prior to that the clockfaces are frequently porcelain, while the hands would be metal. Also check the glass crystal here, later models can be plastic as well.
The List
I) Vintage Pocket Watches
1. French Ladies Pocket Watch
Period: 19th century
Material: Silver, metal, & glass
Condition: Non-functional
Price: $60
A lovely mini pocket watch in a silver case, this piece features floral engravings on the back and edges. The clock is no longer functional, so this piece is either display or a restoration project.
2. Waltham Watch Co. #1894
Period: 1908
Material: Silver, metal, & glass crystal
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $100
This piece has been serviced and restored (glass replaced) to full functionality. It is a sleek piece, telling time down to the second. It is a stem wind & set with Roman numeral hour-markings.
3. AM Hunter Case
Period: 1900s
Material: Coin silver & metal
Condition: No watch mechanics
Price: $99
A lovely silver pocket watch case with a simple engraving on front. The clasp and hinge both work smoothly, it’s overall in good vintage condition.
4. Edwardian Lion-Stamped
Period: 1900s
Material: Sterling silver
Condition: Case only
Price: $149
An English-made sterling silver case engraved with an Edwardian pattern. This case is in excellent repair, perfect for a pendant or refitting—there is no clockface or gear-workings inside currently.
5. Gunmetal Case with Mineral Glass
Period: 1910s
Material: Gunmetal & mineral glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $69
This is an elegant design with Latin numerals and gold detailing inside a gunmetal case. The timepiece seems to be Swiss-made and is still functioning.
6. Hunter NY Double
Period: 1910s
Material: Metal & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $195
This pocket watch was sold by the Hunter brand, the case was manufactured by Bayside W Co. while the clock is a NY Standard piece. Both sides open, one to reveal the clock face and one for the clock-workings. Mild wear but all together in great vintage condition!
7. Open-Face Ornate Silver
Period: 1910s
Material: 800 silver, metal, & glass
Condition: Non-functional
Price: $95
Ornate engravings decorate the silver case’s edges and back on this lovely pocket watch. It features Roman numerals on the face with what appear to be the original hands. This piece is not currently in functional condition, but it is a beautiful display piece.
8. Illinois Dodecagon
Period: 1920s
Material: Metal & glass
Condition: Non-functional
Price: $99
A dodecagon (10-sides) instead of the usual circle, this piece is in excellent cosmetic condition. There seems to be an issue with the stem, as it will neither wind nor set the clock despite moving smoothly.
9. Illinois Octagon
Period: 1920s
Material: Silver, metal, & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $125
Apparently, Illinois brand had a taste for unusually shaped cases during the ‘20s, this one is an Art Deco octagon. The edges and back are engraved (the back includes a space for a monogram). Light wear on the dial, otherwise in good vintage condition.
10. Ingraham Biltmore
Period: 1930s
Material: Metal
Condition: Parts or reconstruction
Price: $10
An Ingraham Biltmore watch in rather rough condition, this piece could be used for pieces or possibly renovated.
11. Ritzi Brand
Period: 1940s
Material: Metal & early plastic (possibly Bakelite)
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $29
This mid-century pocket watch has the sleek design popular in the era … and an early plastic replacing the glass crystal cover, hence the yellow cast. The piece is functional and in good vintage condition.
12. Westclox Scotty, Style 2
Period: 1950s
Material: Metal
Condition: Partially functional
Price: $20
Mid-century Moderne styling shines through on this 1950s Westclox Scotty piece. It is only mildly functional—can only be wound enough to run for a couple of minutes—but it is in otherwise good condition and potentially fixable!
13. Crown Engraved M
Period: 1970s
Material: Metal & glass
Condition: Functional
Price: $65
A Crown brand pocket watch with a Medieval-style M engraved on the back plate. The piece is either gold or bronze and is in overall good vintage condition.
14. Pencron Train
Period: 1970s
Material: Brass, metal, & glass
Condition: Functional
Price: $50
This railway-themed set features a wind-up pocket watch and a Swiss knife. It is in excellent vintage condition, perfect for the train enthusiast in your life!
15. Papini Battery-Operated
Period: 1980s
Material: n/a
Condition: Needs batteries
Price: $20
This is a reproduction-style timepiece from the 1980s. It is battery-operated with all the flair of a Victorian pocket watch. It is in good vintage condition, although it needs new batteries.
16. Stonehenge Pocket Watch
Period: 1980s
Material: Pewter, plastic, & stone
Condition: Excellent
Price: $20
This is an unusual piece: the old gears and face have been replaced with an exact replica of Stonehenge to be used as a shadow watch. A book detailing the theory is included. The antique timepiece case is in excellent condition.
II) Vintage Pocket Watches with Chain
1. Tiffany & Co. Diamonds
Period: 1900s
Material: Platinum, 18kt gold, diamonds, & enamel guilloche
Condition: Good cosmetic condition
Price: $5,500
The case for this watch was made by Tiffany & Co., famous for serving up diamonds in their signature blue boxes. In this case, the diamonds are inset to a pocket watch case & chain that spares no expense: platinum, 18kt gold, enamel guilloche … and diamonds. The cosmetic condition is good, there are no details on the functional condition.
2. Elgin White Gold
Period: c. 1925
Material: White gold, steel, brass, silver, glass, & enamel
Condition: Fully functional (restored)
Price: $429
This piece is a rarity for retaining black enameling on the back of the case, usually worn away by now. The case is in excellent cosmetic shape; the clock workings have been newly cleaned & restored to full functionality.
3. Lucerne Brand
Period: 1960s
Material: Gold & metal
Condition: Functional
Price: $75
Detailed engravings spread across the case and face of this gold-toned pocket watch, with Roman numeral hours standing out in black-and-white. This piece comes on a gold chain for pocket watch or necklace style use.
4. Majestron Quartz w/ Knife Chain Fob
Period: 1970s
Material: Metal & glass
Condition: Non-functional (may just need batteries)
Price: $57
This pocket watch is battery-operated rather than mechanically, but the styling heralds back to an earlier era in the fine engraving work. The chain fob connects to the pocket watch on one side and a pocketknife on the other—a helpful counterweight.
5. Westclox Scotty with Fob
Period: 1970s
Material: Metal, glass, & leather
Condition: Non-functioning
Price: $30
A black-and-cream face inside a metallic casing by Westclox Scotty. The Marion Dresser fob shows less wear and was likely added later. Slight discoloration to the casing metal & indeterminate functional issues show the age, but overall this is a great display piece (or renovation project).
6. Harley-Davidson Screaming Eagle
Period: Pre-2000
Material: Metal & glass
Condition: Functional but needs batteries
Price: $72
Motorcycles are the new train? This Harley-Davidson pocket watch is battery-operated and features the brand’s logo on front and their classic eagle + logo on the clockface. Slight wear, but in overall good vintage condition.
7. Majesti Bald Eagle
Period: 1960s-90s
Material: Metal & silver
Condition: Excellent condition
Price: $35
A patriotic pocket watch by Majesti Watch Company of New York. There is a bald eagle in silver tones on both sides of the golden case, plus one printed on the clockface inside.
III) Antique Railroad Pocket Watches
Note to the reader: All the pocket watches in this section are railway-grade pieces rather than R.R.-themed. R.R.-grade pieces were approved by R.R. companies for use by their engineers and officers during operations.
1. Hampden Menlo Park, 18s/17j
Period: 1901
Material: Gold, metal, & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $375
An early version of the railway pocket watch that would become strongly associated with the idea of train travel. This piece is in excellent condition, especially considering it’s been keeping time for over 100 years!
2. Hamilton Railroad Special, 16s/21j
Period: 1900s
Material: Gold, metal, & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $595
16-size with 21 jewels, this pocket watch is on the higher end of mechanical construction—an excellent find. Even better, this piece was a salesman sample featuring a clear back to display the gears clearly!
3. Ottoman Railways
Period: 1900s-10s
Material: Metal, porcelain, & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $329
This timepiece was made for the Ottoman Railways in the early 20th century. The number markings are unusual, neither Roman nor Latin. The piece shows wear, some of the casing has been worn through, but it is functional and in overall good vintage condition.
4. Hampden Wm McKinley, 16s/17j
Period: 1910s
Material: Ceramic, gold, steel, & glass
Condition: Fully functional (restored)
Price: $260
Another 16-size, with 17 jewels and a pretty gold-toned case. It is in excellent cosmetic condition and newly restored mechanics are ready to keep time for years to come.
5. Cyma for Lancashire/Derbyshire RR
Period: c. 1920s
Material: Metal & glass
Condition: Functional but needs servicing
Price: $150
Cyma, a renown Swiss company, made the workings for this pocket watch in what was likely a special order made by the Lancashire Derbyshire East Coast Railway. The movements suggest a 1920s dating.
6. Hamilton 16s/21j
Period: 1920s
Material: Gold, steel, & porcelain
Condition: Good condition
Price: $475
Another Hamilton timepiece, also 16-size with 21 jewels, this pocket watch is the 1920s younger sibling to the 1900s Hamilton listed above. This piece is in excellent cosmetic condition, with beautiful engraving work around the edges of the case.
7. Elgin R.R. 21j
Period: c. 1925
Material: 12k gold, metal, & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $525
A 21-jewel movement in Elgin’s noted railroad line, B. W. Raymond. This piece is in excellent vintage condition, a few minor scratches to the glass crystal and case back, but it keeps time to within seconds of the day.
8. Waltham Vanguard 23-Jewel
Period: 1948
Material: 10k gold, metal, industrial jewels, & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $425
This watch, with 23 jewels, is at the higher end of pocket watch mechanics—designed to maintain perfectly-balanced, accurate functionality no matter which way the watch faced (upside-down, etc.).
9. Waltham Premier, 16s/21j
Period: 1940s
Material: 10k gold, metal, & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $275
It would seem 16-size was a popular dimension for railway-grade pocket watches—for decades! This one has 21 jewels and features the exact minutes around the outside of the clockface. It is fully functional and in good vintage condition.
10. Serkisof 18j for Turkish Railway Co.
Period: 1950s
Material: Stainless steel, metal, & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $89
An 18-jewel timepiece manufactured by the Serkisof brand for the Turkish Railway Company in the mid-20th century. This pocket watch is in excellent condition, only mild wear per age.
IV) Gold Pocket Watches
1. Longines Watch in Hunter Case
Period: 1888
Material: 18kt Gold, metal, & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $1495
Art Nouveau engravings wrap around this 18kt gold case, inside the clockface and gears are still in excellent, fully functional condition. This is an amazingly detailed and beautiful piece for any collection!
2. Waltham 16S
Period: 1899
Material: Yellow gold, metal, & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $135
This piece is an elegant, straightforward pocket watch from the last year of the 19th century. It is in functional condition and good vintage cosmetic condition.
3. Crescent Watch Case Co
Period: 19th century
Material: Gold, metal, & glass
Condition: Case only
Price: $125
A beautifully engraved gold filled case, this no longer has a watch and gears, but the case is in excellent condition for a creative use or refurbishment.
4. Victorian Engravings Case
Period: 19th century
Material: Yellow gold
Condition: Case only
Price: $62
This lovely little pocket watch case features Victorian engraving around the exterior, with only mild signs of wear. There are no gears or clockface inside anymore.
5. Hampden Molly Stark, 7j
Period: 1904
Material: 14kt gold, metal, & glass
Condition: Functional
Price: $140
A Hamden pocket watch with a floral design engraved on the 14k gold case. This piece ticks as it should and is in great cosmetic condition.
6. NY Standard with Case Label
Period: 1904
Material: Gold, metal, & glass
Condition: Parts or restoration
Price: $75
This pocket watch is missing its crown and is currently non-functional, however it does have its original case label certifying it as gold-plated (and warranted for 5 years). It is a great piece for restoration.
7. Waltham Keystone
Period: 1911
Material: Gold, metal, & glass
Condition: Functional
Price: $129
This is an excellent Waltham piece, although it does have a couple issues, with a missing jewel (of 16) & a missing hour hand. It is in good cosmetic condition, just needs a little help!
8. Fahys Watch Case Co.
Period: 1910s
Material: Brass & gold
Condition: Case only
Price: $58
A gold-filled & brass three-leaf case from the earl 20th century. There is a period monogram on the case, no face or gears inside.
9. Elgin Waterbury
Period: 1920s
Material: Gold, metal, & glass
Condition: Non-functional
Price: $53
Ornate designs decorate the case of this Waterbury pocket watch. It is on the more-worn side, it has obviously seen a lot of adventures! It does not currently work and it’s unclear what it would take to have it up and running again.
V) Antique Elgin Pocket Watches
1. Elgin Silverode 18s
Period: c. 1890
Material: Silver, nickle, brass, steel, porcelain, & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $412
An early Elgin—so early they haven’t started using just “Elgin” on the clockface yet—in excellent condition. There is slight wear of course, but this piece has been newly renovated and is ticking perfectly. An antique chain is included as well.
2. 6 Size with Chain
Period: c. 1897
Material: Gold, brass, steel, porcelain, & glass
Condition: Excellent, fully functional
Price: $549
This 6 size (1 5/8” across) timepiece is in immaculate condition, it appears to have been barely used since it was made. The original gears, hands, face, etc. are all intact, the only new piece is the added chain.
3. Excavated Antiques
Period: 19th century
Material: Metal
Condition: For display
Price: $70
An Eglin pocket watch and tri-fold case without the watch-works are being sold as a set, both from the same estate excavation. They are in worn condition, non-functional and not recommended for parts—but a unique display item!
4. 10 Size 14kt Gold
Period: 19th century
Material: 14kt yellow gold, metal, & glass
Condition: Functional
Price: $1850
This Elgin pocket watch has an engraved gold case with rope detailing around the edges, inside Roman numerals and a separate seconds-round show the time. This piece is in excellent condition and functional, an amazing find!
5. Model 3, Grade 345, 12 Size
Period: 1918
Material: Metal & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $85
An early 20th century Elgin on the larger end of the size scale, this piece is in excellent condition. Very clean, minimal wear, and keeping time with accuracy!
6. Mystery Piece
Period: 1917-1920
Material: Metal & glass
Condition: Functional
Price: $95
This piece has a rough dating, is possibly bronze or gold, and has an unknown jewel count—it is in operable condition and is an Elgin piece, but that is the end of certainty. This may be a catch waiting to be found!
7. Wadsworth Referee Case
Period: 1920s
Material: Metal & glass
Condition: Non-functional
Price: $30
A Elgin watch set in a Wadsworth Referee monogrammed case, this piece is no longer functional, but could possibly be refurbished.
VI) Antique Swiss Pocket Watches
1. Birds in Flight
Period: 1900s
Material: 9ct gold, diamond, metal, & glass
Condition: Decorative/non-functional
Price: $888
Two swallows and an inset diamond highlight the 9ct gold case on this early 20th century pocket watch. The clockface & gear-works are accounted for but non-functional, so this piece is either decorative or a restoration project.
2. Dimier Bros. Pictorial Movement
Period: c. 1907
Material: Sterling silver, metal, & glass
Condition: Fully function (cleaning/service may help)
Price: $162
This sterling silver case has acquired some aged patina, but overall, the piece is in good condition. This pocket watch was sold by the Dimier Bros. company, the interior movement (gears aspect) was manufactured for them by the Swiss brand Pictorial.
3. Zenith 17-Jewel
Period: 1910s
Material: Metal & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $225
This clockwork piece from renown Swiss manufacturer Zenith is encased in a Cashiers case—so it was probably intended for the Canadian market. It is in excellent condition, cosmetically and functionally.
4. Galonne 800 Silver
Period: 1930s
Material: 800 Silver, metal, & glass
Condition: Functional
Price: $130
A colorful clockface set for both 12-hr & 24-hr timekeeping, along with a separate dial for the seconds. This piece shows some cosmetic wear on the case and the clockface, but it is in good functional condition.
5. AFB 17j Braille Timepiece
Period: 1950s
Material: Stainless steel
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $80
This is an interesting piece: the typical glass crystal cover for the clockface is missing in favor of raised Braille symbols around the edges. This pocket watch was ordered by the American Foundation for the Blind.
6. Cortebert for the Turkish Railway
Period: 1960s
Material: Metal & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $199
A Cortebert brand pocket watch made for the Turkish Railway Company in the 1960s. This piece is in excellent repair, cosmetically and functionally.
7. La Marque Enamel
Period: 1970s
Material: Enamel, metal, & glass
Condition: Fully functional
Price: $95
This gold-and-blue themed pocket watch is a classy throwback to the Baroque styles. This piece is a high-end construction, which shows in its fully functional condition today.
Are Antique Pocket Watches Worth Anything?
Yes. There’s the easy answer. Of course, the real answer is more nuanced, but overall pocket watches are examples of expert craftmanship with typically quality materials (metals and industrial jewels), so a high-end or rare pocket watch is often a worthy investment. If you have the skill set, a fixer-upper is a great way to go with less monetary investment giving way to a time investment.
